World Turkey Gallipoli

Kirsti's Odyssey

Gallipoli Jul 14, 2009

Visiting Gallipoli while I was in Turkey was an absolute must. I didn't know quite what to expect and was a little surprised at how emotional I became, visiting ANZAC Cove, the museum and all of the different cemeteries. The museum is quite small, but provides really good background to the war fought at Gallipoli and the surrounding areas, and has some interesting artifacts, including bullets that have hit each other in the air. If that sounds a little unlikely, let me assure you it's true, I saw the proof! During the war at Gallipoli, 6000 bullets per square metre were shot, a shocking statistic that provides some some of perspective of the brutality of the fighting in this area. At the same time, the war at Gallipoli is known as the "Gentlemen's War", for the humanity that the Allied and Turkish soldiers showed each other both during the fighting and during ceasefires, when they assisted each other to bury their dead, and shared water and cigarettes.

The war began in the straits of the Dardanelles, when the British ships began bombing the Turkish defences, hoping to gain control of Constantinople (Istanbul). Whoever had control of Istanbul would also have control of the nexus between Asia and Europe, and a direct supply line to Russia through the Sea of Marmara and the Dead Sea. Gaining control of Istanbul would also allow Britain and France to create a southern front against Austria-Hungary. The naval attack was a complete failure, ship after ship was caught by the underwater bombs and sunk. Our guide told us it is of some pride to the Turkish that is was their 75 bombs, placed strategically on the coast of mainland Turkey where the current flow, and where they weren't expected by the Allies, that sunk the ships.

It was after this naval failure that the land assault was planned, to be conducted by the Mediterranean Expeditionary Force, composed of British, French, Australian, Indian and New Zealand soldiers. The Australian Imperial Force began landing on Gallipoli at North Beach and what is now know as ANZAC Cove on 25 April 1915. The New Zealand Infantry Brigade soon followed, and initially some success was achieved. The Turkish Army wasn't prepared for an invasion at ANZAC cove and were woefully unprepared, only 170 Turkish soldiers were stationed on the hills above to keep a look out. They were quickly pushed back by the ANZACs, who were able to catch a glimpse of the Dardanelles before they were ordered to dig in, as large numbers of Turkish reinforcements arrived. The ANZAC commanders recommended a withdrawal but were ignored, and so began the trench warfare of Gallipoli that would claim so many lives on both sides. At times the trenches were little more that 10 feet apart, and the soldiers could throw homemade grenades into the opposing lines with little trouble. This is where Australian soldiers earned the nickname of "diggers", because of the vast amounts of trenches they were forced to dig in order to hold their lines.

ANZACs were also involved in the fighting at other points on the pennisula, including at Cape Helles, where the British forces had originally landed on 25 April 1915. On 6 May 1915, at attempt was made to break out from Cape Helles and captured the village of Krithia, which also had a commanding hill of the surrounding countryside. On 8 May the ANZACs were ordered forward, some raising their shovels to their faces as protection against the accurate and rapid fire of the Turks. Over 1000 Australian and 800 New Zealand soldiers were killed or wounded during this attack. Several other battles were fought before the Allied forces finally withdrew in December 1915. This includes the Turkish counter-attack, in which 10,000 Turkish soldiers lost their lives as did 160 ANZACs. Over 3,000 Turkish soldiers lay dead in the open for 5 days in the summer heat until a ceasefire was declared and all helped to bury the dead. Disease was the constant companion of the soldiers of Gallipoli, including dysentery, diarrhoea and enteric fever. Body lice was also a constant companion and source of torment. The offensive in August 1915, at Long Pine and the Nek was planned to capture high ground and thus tip the battle in the favour of the Allies. The fighting was fierce, and four lines of Australian soldiers were cut down before they reached the enemy lines, at a loss of 250 soldiers.

By the end of the occupation at Gallipoli, many soldiers feared they would never return home. The losses on both sides were shocking, 21,000 British, 10,000 French, 8,700 Australians, 2,700 New Zealanders and 1,370 Indians.

Visiting all of these places, and reading the gravestones of the soldiers, was absolutely heartbreaking. Especially because the number of gravestones does not come even close to representing the number of dead. Four years had passed by the time an agreement was reached to allow the Allied countries to come and recover their dead. By that stage, even those soldiers who had been given a proper burial and cross, where very difficult to identify as the crosses had been made of wood, and had weathered beyond legibility. The young age of so many soldiers was also heartbreaking, barely out of their teens, row after row of young men laid to rest in the earth.

I have always been proud to be Australian, but Gallipoli has made me feel truly patriotic.